Cape York Air Safari August 2018

Just what was I thinking when I enquired about joining an Air Safari to Cape York!  Mostly I was thinking the organizer would forget about the enquiry.  Or, I would find out there was no accommodation left.  Fortunately, neither of the scenarios happened.  Also, by this time I happened to have mentioned it to my sister and her husband, so I now had two keen passengers. I was glad my sister didn’t realize that all those flying hours I had been racking up over the last thirty-five years was nearly exclusively 747 hours in cattle class, and definitely not on the flight deck. I had kept up with technology and could competently check in and book online and operate the inflight entertainment system, so of course I would be able to navigate on an iPad, if I actually bought one … I hoped!

First things first — at least I was flying a Cessna 172 which I had done most of my training on and had flown (under supervision) to Ballina in the last year, so was sort of confident I could get that far. I decided I still needed real, i.e. paper, maps (don’t laugh), so I at least had an overall picture of where I was going. I updated my 1982 maps and added a few more. The downside I discovered with new maps was that I would be traversing about eight control zones in  the first few days — talk about adding to my anxiety! Sydney and Brisbane and those nice guys in Willy tower used to be the only zones on the east coast. How was I going to fudge making others think I was somewhat competent!

 The big day arrives and we don life jackets, give our passengers the safety briefings and tell them to commit them to memory. We depart Bankstown and head north. I manage Williamtown and Coffs Harbour control zones and land at Ballina to refuel and that was the last of the known terrain. We have a picnic lunch in the lee of a hanger then take off for Caloundra in Queensland. We struggle through the Gold Coast dodging helicopters left and right. Scenery is spectacular especially as we are mostly at 500 feet, and sand islands, deltas and sea life that is not seen from the ground appears all around us. The bummer is no autopilot, so I can’t make the most of the view.   I can only hear my excited passengers exclaiming over this whale and that land form.

Finally by the end of the second day we are through six control zones to historic Rockhampton - stunning old buildings, including a customs house on the Fitzroy River.

Thank goodness for the excellent training of air traffic controllers, who issue clear, easily understood instructions on the radio – makes life so much easier.  In Rocky, the safety meeting that evening is held in the Criterion Pub, which then turns into dinner. Discussion is about arriving into Shute Harbour the next day, so forewarned I make sure I Google and digest the airfield information that has been provided to safari pilots.  On a very windy day at Shute Harbour, I decide that my preparation has been well worth the time spent, when we land somewhat respectably, with all passengers intact - which is more than can be said about the sightseeing plane which disgorges a number of passengers to throw up on the grass as they alight just after us.

Through Cairns, we opt for the inland route  - over land rather than the longer sea route - which tracks us alongside some very high escarpments (3337 feet) which narrows to a road at Buchan Point where we need to be under 1000 feet.  By the time we reach Cooktown I am reasonably proficient with control zones  - which we have now run out of -  as I’ve  now been through Townsville and the final one Cairns.

At Cooktown, with an imminent rest day ahead, we relax and enjoy the local prawns and coral trout from the hotel balcony (after the safety meeting of course) while the sun sets.

From Cooktown on is familiar as my husband Michael and I have done the four wheel drive up the old tracks, so we aren’t expecting anything too exciting or new, but it is amazing how much of Australia’s coastline is inaccessible by road. Unfortunately there is a lot of mining infrastructure affecting our remote and not so remote coastal regions that all Australians need to be aware of. Heading inland we have a couple of options as for the first time we have some clouds on the horizon (literally) and some very big hills (read mountains) so have carefully chosen the lowest route to Coen to refuel. Lunch is at Bramwell Station — my first dirt strip for a long time. I avoid the drainage ditch along the parking area, find the least rocky spot to minimize dings in the prop on startup – there are very limited options to find grass in drought affected Queensland.

We arrive at Bamaga after negotiating bushfire smoke. Staying in excellent accommodation including a pool, we were treated to a Saibai Islander concert and meals that evening. On our day off, Michael and I opt for a fourteen kilometre walk and reacquatiance of nearby Seisia as we’d previously done the Cape.  We head coastal the next day to take in the most northerly tip of Australia from 500 feet then on to Horn Island.

Our AQIS (quarantine requirements for coming back to the mainland) details are also sorted out for our departure the next day.  After wandering around for a while a few of us arrange to ferry across to Thursday Island (TI) early, due to the busy schedule providing insufficient time  for was souvenir shopping. A few of our number have other priorities than flying and sightseeing!  Unfortunately TI residents are still in the 1970s and there are no shops open. Adjourning to the pub and informing the barman about these quirks of TI time, a local lady overhears this situation and offers to rouse her friend to open her pearl shop across from the pub. A little while later after perusing the lovely local island handicrafts and south sea pearls, inform Michael he’s bought me a lovely pearl necklace even though he hasn’t left the bar - the miracle of the modern credit card.  After a delicious meal it’s the night ferry back across luminescent water to Horn Island.

Next day, arriving at Karumba, on the west coast of the cape, via Coen — again for fuel as Avgas is in short supply in North Queensland because everyone must be FIFO in executive jets these days — Glenn has commandeered the motel’s transport and transfers us all from the airfield. It’s amazing how the local moteliers are happy to let one of us drive their vehicles.  They obviously aren’t aware of just what he does in his RV7!

Before departing on our trip I had been trying to locate where it was easy to fill up on car fuel as our aircraft had the certificate to use it.  In Karumba, my Michael has a chat with the local petrol station and borrows the collapsible jerry cans from another aircraft.  The downside is that you need to be very careful filling tanks in 20 knot winds to avoid having a follow up shower.  Our aircraft then runs beautifully down to Burketown on $1.70/l unleaded 91, thus saving a detour to Normanton for fuel. Our trip continues with lots of experience dodging aircraft in the group arriving and departing at all different speeds at country airfields like Sweers Island and Adel’s Grove.  This demonstrates very clearly the necessity of keeping a good lookout and giving clear position reports, as it is extremely difficult to spot an aircraft ahead of you at the same height even knowing where to look.

At one of our safety meetings we decide on a side trip from Birdsville to Cameron Corner (land in SA, taxi thru NSW & refuel in QLD pub @ $2/l).  The airfield briefing was done during dinner with the aid of a serviette.  One issue I had with this was that the bush just before the runway threshold is really a 6 m tree!  If anyone goes out there please lop that tree as it’s mesmerizing on final. One does need to dodge the four wheel drives on the road and always watch that your tail is lined up straight to taxi through gates as we nearly collect the fence post with the horizontal stabilizer.

Unfortunately, after lunch it is such a slow trip back to Cunnamulla as we have to stop to pick up some fuel at Thargomindah. After fourteen days of the most amazing weather, the magic ends on the last day.  To avoid possible delays caused by weather, two of our faster aircraft head straight to Bankstown from Birdsville. The rest depart from Cunnamulla.  Another two of our aircraft had to divert to Narromine, where they were grounded for up to three days.  The locals were very grateful though for the soaking rain provided by the arrival of the “Rain Gods”.

Luckily we have the advantage of weather reports from Glenn in his RV7 and we get through though to Dubbo where we have a council of war as to which way to proceed. With the Grumman Tiger leading the way, we find our way around clouds to Bathurst initially, then creep over the countryside finding gaps in between hard (hills) and soft clouds to remain VFR. I am looking out for Katoomba and can’t see it till the Three Sisters appears suddenly on my left. We fly around them and scrape through to Warragamba.  The rest is easy with the boys in VH-PZF following our directions arriving fifteen minutes later. It is a two pilot operation — one to fly and one to watch where to go ahead and keep options open behind.

Would I recommend other members joining an Air Safari — hell yes! Not only for the spectacular scenery you can’t see any other way and the great conversations with pilots and passengers who come from all interesting professions and experiences, but also the advantage of hours of flying (which reinforces skills) with a group of experienced pilots from whom one learns a variety of helpful hints that might otherwise take a lifetime to accumulate.

Some handy hints I acquired are:

• Attend daily safety meetings — while not mandatory are necessary to acquire advice on dealing with possible issues each day (but it did mean my alcohol consumption skyrocketed!)
• if you have a sticky solenoid, whack it with a wrench and your engine will start — I just need to find out exactly where to hit it.
• it’s a great way to learn how to use all the functions on an iPad, as someone else will know how to (but nothing beats a paper map for real perspective)
• Other pilots still use paper maps
• No pilot is perfect — although I was the easy one to identify on the radio
• I need to think about passengers next time (I could carry more fuel and/or shopping...)
• A Cessna is still the best touring aircraft as our little 180 HP 172 motored along like a champion.

Did I survive being the old inexperienced female pilot? Yep, but it would be nice to even up the ratios and many thanks to Kerrie, Britta and Dianne for being there. 

I survived fifteen days of flying with my 25,000 hour husband with only one lot of tears - my passengers were most impressed with my fortitude. And he survived fifteen days of being on a

VFR flight though with probably a lot more grey hair due to the proximity of water, hills and things he could see without multiple engines keeping him aloft. Also, to give him credit, he let me fly it all by myself, although I did get lots of advice! We’re looking forward to the Kimberley’s next year.